Leaving the desert behind was bittersweet. My fears and anxieties had been building as we got closer. Were we too early? Would the snow stop us? Is rapid melting a real thing!? My mind had been on the Sierra since day one and now here I was. I had my ice axe, knew the dangers of crossing a river and was ready to take on the Range of Light.
This post is broken up into 3 sections for easier reading. Part 1 Keep Scrolling.
Part 2 (Glen Pass to Muir Pass) Part 3 (Muir Pass to Sonora Pass)
Day 66
Mile 716 | June 1st | 14 Hiked | The South Sierra Wilderness
The celebration of finishing the desert was over and it was time to start hiking again. Now properly geared up for anything the high Sierra might throw at us we left behind the comforts of Kennedy Meadows. Following the Kern river into the foothills of the South Sierra Wilderness made for a stark contrast to the previous 700 miles straight away. Not only were we following a large river but we were in a forest, with trees and shade. When we stopped for water I still filled up 4 bottles thinking long dry stretches must be ahead. Of course I was wrong. Water would be abundant from now on and dominate the landscape at times. Shade from the treeline would come and go however. We were climbing in elevation fast and soon would be above the tree line.
Near the end of the day we came to a large valley split by the Kern River. You could clearly see its path starting in the high Sierra wandering into the valley far below. Along its banks were sandy beach shores where we decided to make camp for the night. We relaxed in the sand and dipped our feet in the river, the sun was shining and the weather warm. Our group was still large with Dad, Alex, the Brothers, Legs, Irish Tony, Smalls and our new friend Marissa all here. How long we would all remain together was yet to be seen but it was a solid start for the trail fam. Feeling good in the sun I decided to cowboy camp that night and enjoy the stars.
Day 67
Mile 738 | 19 Hiked
The night was colder than I thought it would be. When I awoke my sleeping bag was covered in frost. I patiently waited for the sun to rise above the horizon before crawling out. Dad was still putzing around camp when I was getting ready to leave. The plan was to head into Lone Pine before entering the high Sierra so I knew I would see him again before things got serious.
We started climbing in elevation right away and the sequoias became more abundant. After a few miles the trail leveled out and we walked through mini versions of the great granite peaks beyond. Small valleys with massive white boulders and shady pines. The ground was sandy with little to no bushes making the terrain feel wide open between trees and boulders. It was tempting to walk off trail and make your own path through the backcountry.
The miles were going down easy but the last 4 had a 1500ft elevation gain. At each switchback I stopped to catch my breath. In front of me the high Sierra revealed itself and behind was the desert valley below. Seeing the desert floor from this elevation and climate was surreal. We were truly in a self contained ecosystem separated from everything that surrounded. I decided to make camp at this high point to take in the sunset and found myself alone. Dad and company stopped below while Alex and Marisa pushed ahead. Why they would pass up a camp with such spectacular views was beyond me. Hopefully they wouldn’t be in this much of a hurry through the high Sierra. Being alone was a nice change though.
Day 68
Mile 745 | 12 Hiked | Horseshoe Meadow & Lone Pine
I woke to the sun rising above distant desert mountains and enjoyed breakfast with a view. Today was an easy hike with only 10 miles to Horseshoe Meadow where we would grab a hitch into Lone Pine. The trail continued to transform as I pushed further into the Sierra. A sea of twisted old sequoias dominated the landscape here. Most looked dead with no needles to be found but their bark was a vibrant color that made me think they still clung to life. They twisted up from the ground creating jagged spires and unique patterns within the bark. Even the burned out ones seemed to grow on despite the damage done from past fires.
I made it to the trailhead at Horseshoe Meadow early in the day feeling good after cranking out a 10 before 10 (10miles before 10am). The meadow was a large valley with granite peaks on the horizon. It was sad leaving so soon as I was anxious to get into the higher Sierra but we needed to resupply for the next push. No one in the parking lot seemed to be leaving so I marched down the road, thumb out hoping to get a hitch. 2 miles later I was starting to become frustrated. It blows my mind when someone exiting a national park with room in their car passes by an obvious hiker. I cursed at each car that blew by leaving me to walk in the hot sun. Eventually someone stopped and took me down into valley where Lone Pine resided. As we came into the desert I could clearly see where I had come from and what lay beyond. The Sierra rose from the desert in sharp contrast to the rolling hills further to the East. Massive jagged granite peaks that contained endless miles of remote wilderness.
Day 69
Resupply | Lone Pine
Lone Pine sits right on the edge of the Sierra and serves as gateway for those looking to tackle Mt Whitney and the high Sierra. Everything of importance in town is on one road, highway 395. Myself and other thru hikers walked up and down the highway resupplying and checking out the gear stores. We wore rain jackets and wind pants as we did laundry looking like insane people in the 90 degree heat. Our hotel had a pool though and after the chores were done we partied late into the night. Dad strolled in the next morning as usual looking to take another full zero. Nursing hangovers from the night before we happily agreed to rest another day before heading back out.
Day 70
Mile 760 | 14 Hiked
After our long rest in Lone Pine we were eager to be back on trail. We re-entered the Sierra from Horseshoe Meadow and began hiking toward higher ground. Small snow fields dotted the trail but for the most part things were clear. A few miles in we arrived at an alpine lake surrounded by an amphitheater of massive granite. The weather was perfect for relaxing on the grassy shores but too cold for swimming. We ate lunch and watched the marmots pop in and out of the rocks.
As we hiked further North larger peaks came onto the horizon. I speculated which was Mt Whitney but really had no idea. They all looked massive and none stood out as any taller than the others. Whitney was a great peak hidden amongst hundreds of great peaks. We made camp in a low lying forest along a rushing river. Deer grazed in the grassy field across the river as we grazed on our ramen.
Day 71
Mile 766 | 9 Hiked | Guitar Lake via the JMT
Today’s goal was simple, make it to Guitar lake which would serve as basecamp for our summit push up Mt Whitney. The summit of Whitney marks the beginning of the John Muir Trail which the PCT would follow for the next 170 miles. We made it to the JMT junction early in the day and found a lovely river in a large grassy valley to relax at before continuing. The icy water was perfect for sore swollen feet. As soon as we left the junction we came to the Ranger Station which served as a camp for most hikers looking to summit Whitney. None of us were early risers and liked the idea of being closer to the base so we pushed onward. The grass and trees faded as we rose another 1000ft and what remained was granite, snow, ice and water. The landscape was truly grand in scale and like nothing I had ever seen before. Jagged peaks and massive valleys shaped by ancient glaciers. It had an otherworldly feel.
Guitar lake sat nestled in one of these great valleys with the path to Whitney’s summit rising from it. Even here it was not clear which peak was Whitney. Any one of dozens surrounding us could have been it and I would not have been able to tell. This was the land of giants and it was a crowded space. We decided to wake at 2:30am and make a push for the summit in hopes of catching the sunrise. 3000 ft of elevation over 3 miles would get us there. We relaxed in the valley taking in the grandeur of being in such an extreme location. As the sun set the white granite glowed golden. If I were to imagine a pathway to heaven this is how it would look. The weather was perfect and I dozed off with the sun still setting, bottle of coffee and peak bag next to me ready for an early morning summit. One thing weighed on my mind though and it was my Dad. He had not made it to the lake and I grew worried we might not summit together as we had hoped.
Day 72
Mt Whitney Ascent
My alarm goes off and I’m immediately awake. In the dark I pack up my sleeping bag, down my coffee with a clif bar and emerge into the early morning darkness. The massive valley is gone now and I can only see as far as my headlamp shines. We pack up our tents and stash them amongst the rocks before setting off. Our pace was quick from the excitement and eagerness to make it to the summit before the sun rose.
Without much to look at in the darkness my mind brooded over the absence of my father. We had promised to summit Whitney together, I had hiked slow and waited for him to catch us and still he was not here. I was becoming bitter over the fact that we couldn’t seem to sync up and hated that this was what I was thinking about when I should have been focused on the trail. As we rounded another switchback we came to the first snow patch and spotted a few hikers ahead slowly crossing. We came up behind fast and startled them, they turned and lo and behold it was my Dad! My earlier anger immediately washed away and I felt bad for doubting the old man’s word. We greeted each other ecstatically in the darkness both admitting that we thought the other had failed to follow through on the plan.
Now reunited and even more excited we climbed on. The long switchbacks felt never ending but they were steady and not too steep. Every now and then a field of snow would block the trail and we would carefully cross. Luckily other hikers had gone before us leaving easy steps to follow. Slowly, light started to creep into the sky and we were able to turn our headlamps off. A break in the wall of granite allowed us to see the horizon below in the desert valley. Pinks and oranges were filling the sky but the sun was still below the horizon. We pushed harder racing against the sun. One false summit stood in our way and then we were there. The sun was just starting to peek over the horizon as we made it to the summits edge. A dozen other hikers were camped out huddled in their sleeping bags gazing at the view ahead patiently awaiting the sun. Slowly it rose above the Panamint Range from Death Valley below illuminating the sky and mountains that surrounded us. In all directions the view was stunning without a cloud in sight. To the East lay the desert valley looking like another world. On all other sides the Sierra looked endless, peaks still covered in snow. We spent another hour up here watching the light transform and enjoying each others company before heading back down.
The descent was more stunning than the climb now that the trail was lit up by the early morning sun. Great spires of granite reached upward along a rocky trail that hugged the side of the mountain. From below a trail being here would seem absurd but here it was guiding us down an otherwise impassable wall of granite. Below were alpine lakes covered in ice looking like a scene from the arctic. I took my favorite photo here.
Once back at guitar lake we had lunch and enjoyed the beauty of the great granite canyon one last time. At the Ranger Station we decided to take a nap before going any further. We had been up since 2:30am and it was only noon now. 2 hours later we got back on the PCT and ventured further into the high Sierras. We were really in them now and ended up crossing two good sized rivers before calling it a day. Our camp was located in the middle of a giant valley with snowy mountain peaks on all sides. Normally it would be too windy to camp in such an open location at this elevation but tonight it was perfect. We were treated to a spectacular sunset over dinner and marveled at how amazing of a day we had just had. The Sierra was already exceeding my expectations.
Day 73
Mile 790 | 18 Hiked | Forester Pass
We left behind our magnificent valley and descended back into the pines. We made our way across two moderately sized river crossings before coming back into another large valley. The trail was buried under large snow fields and we decided how best to move forward and connect the pieces that were visible. As the sun warmed the snow walking through it became tougher. Every few steps you would sink up to your waist. They call this post holing and we quickly became familiar with it that day. From all the rivers and waterfalls cascading down the valley walls it was apparent the snow was melting quickly. Alex, feeling warm decided to take a dip in one of these snow melt streams. The swim did not last long and he jumped out as fast as he went in.
As we climbed higher in elevation the valley seemed to end with no clear exit. In the distance we spotted other hikers going up the snow covered granite walls. Further up the wall were more hikers crossing a small snow patch that looked to be the pass. They were crossing a tiny strip of snow set on an extremely steep side which looked completely nuts from our vantage point below. How they got there was a mystery but we started going up hoping the trail would eventually reveal itself once we got to higher ground. After climbing up a large snow field and scrambling over large sections of skree we found the trail again. It hugged the side of the mountain and led up to the pass. The final snow field set in the steep chute of the mountain was intimidating. With my ice axe out I made my away across. The snow was frozen hard and my axe failed to do much. Thankfully previous footsteps were solidly in place and quite deep making the traverse a simple one.
We stood atop the highest point of the entire PCT, Forester Pass, at 13,153 ft. Behind us was the valley we had come from stretching for miles and ahead of us was a new valley just as massive. This was the gateway to the famed Kings Canyon National Park. The North side of the pass was covered in snow and the only way down was through it. This seemed like a daunting task but once we started walking we realized the snow was too soft to pose any real threat of sliding. If you were able to build up momentum and slide you would be going for a while before coming to a large frozen lake at the bottom. A few hikers purposely did this using their ice axes to glissade down. Sadly the snow was so soft you mostly just sunk in making for a very slow ride. The snow covered trail followed a rideline down into the valley below for several miles before reaching the bottom. Each time I thought we had made it down and the snow was behind us I would turn a corner to find more downhill and more snow. This was our first time walking through miles of snow and we had a lot of fun postholing, sliding and falling all over the place. The day was warm and the danger minimal.
Eventually we made it to the bottom where a large forest grew transforming the trail from wide open valley to overgrown woods. The trail followed a large rushing river. Marissa and Alex had stopped ahead of me to take a dip in a pool flowing from the river. The water was freezing and I didn’t stay in for long. We rested amongst the rocks in the sun and debated how much further to go for the day. The forest had plenty of lovely campsites and fires were permitted at this elevation. Marissa and Alex wanted to push further and set up for Glenn Pass the next day though and I gave up on the idea of a warm fire. By the time we found a decent campsite we were high in elvaton again. I was starting to feel like I was chasing Alex and Marissa who were always a mile ahead of me and couldn’t help but feel like we were rushing through what might be the best section of trail.
Day 74
Mile 803 | 15 Hiked | Glenn Pass
We started out the morning with a tough climb a mile from the top of Glenn Pass. The base of the valley was covered in snow and the climb out was a set of steep switchbacks. The sun illuminated the valley making for another spectacular morning. Getting to the top wasn’t as hard as Forester but the North Side of Glenn was uniquely challenging. Crossing the steep snow banks on the way down was nerve wracking and I gripped my ice axe ready to arrest myself should I fall. After crossing the snow we scrambled down steep skree connecting pieces of the trail that were not covered in snow. The path forward always seemed apparent but how to get there was trial and error. Walk through the snow and risk sliding or rock hop between the skree and risk tumbling over the rocks. Both were hard work and kept things interesting. Halfway down Glenn things evened out a bit and a new valley opened up before us.
This valley was home to the Rae Lakes loop. Multiple emerald blue lakes dotted the landscape creating a water world surrounded by snow capped granite peaks. Along the shores of the lakes flowers bloomed and new grasses grew. The trail weaved between the lakes crossing tiny granite islands. This was easily the most beautiful section of trail we had come across. The trout were so abundant in these lakes you could almost catch one by sticking your hands out and waiting. The trail was flat through this section making it easier to enjoy the scenery. All good things come to an end though and by midday we crossed a large suspension bridge and started gaining elevation again.
We had decided to go into the town of Bishop to resupply via Sawmill Pass and were trying to set up for an easy hike the following day. As we approached the Sawmill Pass junction the weather on the horizon started to change. The wind was picking up and grey clouds were rolling in. It looked certain to storm. We debated how far to go up the pass and decided to keep an eye out for a good camp as we went. Alex seemed dead set on getting to the top or even over the pass before nightfall which I thought was a bad idea given the weather. If there’s one thing I truly fear when hiking it’s lighting and I didn’t want to camp at a high elevation and get caught in the storm. It was obvious right away that the Sawmill Pass trail was not hiked often and we lost our way multiple times over the first mile.
The wind was blowing hard now and I was feeling beat. With no obvious place to camp Alex and I again debated the idea of going further or not. Things got a little heated and we both looked to Marissa to break the stalemate. It was obvious we were both being stubborn and that she wanted no part of our silly debate. Eventually Alex gave in to my pleas to stop early and we set up a camp along a beautiful but soggy lake shore. Alex seemed annoyed as he set up and I was upset myself. As we brooded Marissa started trying to catch trout with a simple hook and line. For bait she was using a sour patch kid and no joke a trout was hooked the second it hit the water. Blown away by this Alex and I stopped our childish bickering and proceeded to catch and release a few more trout before bed.
Day 75
Bishop Resupply via Sawmill Pass | 13 Hiked
When we planned our exit for resupply 4 days earlier in Lone Pine, exiting at Sawmill Pass seemed like a great idea. It was further down the trail then Kearsarge Pass and dumped you out closer to Bishop. Sadly we neglected to read the Guthook comments which was a huge mistake. Always read the comments. The trail continued to be hard to follow and we made a game out of finding it. Whenever the leader went off trail he was no longer the leader and rotated to the back. We were changing positions every 10min. The pass was mellow at least in comparison to Forester and Glenn and we crossed it fairly easily. Once we started going down is when we realized we had made the wrong choice. 10 miles of pure descent we started seeing the desert valley floor below and realized that would be our final destination.
In our heads we had envisioned a trail head parking lot high in the hills like Horseshoe Meadow where we could catch an easy hitch to Bishop. The reality was we were hiking all the way from the middle of the Sierra to HWY 395 in the desert below. If this had been a section of the PCT it would have been the largest elevation change on the entire trail. 7000ft of elevation loss over 10 miles on a very poorly maintained trail. Once we reached the desert thorny bushes took over the trail and I lost it multiple times trying to avoid being stabbed with every step. Eventually we made it to a desolate trailhead and walked another 2 miles to HWY 395. Getting a hitch out took a while but the first adventure van that passed stopped for us. They even hooked it up with some cold beers. Before we even made it to the road we decided not to re-enter through Sawmill Pass and instead come back in through Kearsarge Pass. This would put us further back on the PCT and we would need to re-hike Glenn Pass and the Rae Lakes but that sounded nice compared to going back through the brutal Sawmill Pass.
Day 76-77
Bishop Resupply & Zero
We got dropped off at the Bishop brewery where I checked my messages and found out Dad had just made it out of the Sierra via Kearsarge Pass and was heading our way now. We booked a hotel room for the night and ran into The Brothers, Legs and Twerk. Our evening turned into a late night party which led to morning hangovers that were now synonymous with town days. This was perfect for my dad who wanted to take a full zero in town. Bishop is famed for its bouldering and I really wanted to go out and try climbing. Sadly the area was not close enough to get to on foot and it was 90 degrees outside. Bishop itself was a cute town offering some nice restaurants and boutique gear stores to check out. By now I was struggling to write daily instagrams posts about the hike and valued the time off to catch up. The only photo I took in town was of this bag containing 7 days of ramen.
Day 78
Mile 793 | 13 Hiked | Kearsarge Pass
We returned to the trail via Kearsarge Pass with 8 days of food hoping to make it to Mammoth before we ran out. This would be the longest and most remote section of trail and after spending just 4 days in Sierra, 8 sounded daunting. Kearsarge was a tough pass to re-enter the Sierra from but nothing compared to the insanity that was Sawmill Pass. On top of being easier it also offered new spectacular views. Alpine lakes and jagged peaks lined the trail on the way back to the PCT. We even got stopped by ranger at the top of the pass who asked to see our permits. I had carried this permit 800 miles before needing to use it and eagerly dug it out from my pack to proudly show for the first time.
Papers in order, we were back on the PCT and ready to redo the miles lost from re-entering further South. Again we went up the switchbacks of Glenn Pass and the sketchy scramble down its North side. Two passes in one day was about all we could handle though and when we got to the first of the Rae Lakes we decided to make camp along its shore. Passing up camping here the first time had been tough so I was grateful for the redo.
Day 79
Mile 808 | 15 Hiked | Pinchot Pass
I awoke to my tent covered in condensation. We dried out in the morning sun before getting back on trail. Once again we walked through the Rae Lakes, a pleasant flat stroll compared to most of the Sierra. Even on my second time I still found myself stopping to marvel at the granite domes and perfect blue lakes.
Ahead on the trail I noticed an older man wearing a climbing helmet struggling to walk. With him was a thru-hiker carrying two packs. Apparently the old man had been scrambling peaks in the area, fell and broke a rib. Lucky for him a PCT hiker had decided to help him hike out. Alex and I decided to help as well and take some of the gear to the trail pass junction. I felt bad for the old man but even worse for the hiker who had just returned to the Sierra and would now have to exit again. We wished them luck at the junction and continued on.
By afternoon we had passed the Sawmill Pass junction and were on fresh trail again. Ahead was Pinchot Pass which started off in a large granite canyon covered with snow fields. It was a lot more mellow on the way up then Glenn and Forester and went down easy. Alex and Marissa had been ahead of me the entire day and I didn’t find them again till the top of the Pass. I like to shoot photos with fellow hikers in frame so the fact that they were nowhere in sight all day bummed me out. Being alone is fine but I was used to finding Alex waiting ahead every few miles to smoke a bowl and shoot the shit. The light was fading on top of the pass and made for a great view of the valley below. A large lake visible from the top looked like a good place to camp and I proceeded down to make it there before dark. I crawled into my tent that evening cold, exhausted and feeling blue.
Day 80
Mile 826 | 18 Hiked | Mather Pass
Within the first mile of today’s stretch we were crossing rivers. Some provided rocks and logs to parkour across and not be slowed down but others required taking off your shoes and dipping into the icy water. By the 5th river before noon we all said “fuck it” and started crossing in our shoes. The snow season had been moderate this year so the crossings were tame unlike years prior where hikers had lost their lives to dangerous crossings. We were thankful that the worst we had to deal with was wet shoes.
Today’s valley leading to Mather Pass was the most grand yet. Great peaks lined the valley and I day dreamed of the climbers who had sumitted them. They were so remote which made the thought of standing on their peaks more appealing. I thought of returning with the goal of peak bagging these giants but today my goal was to continue North.
The Southside of Mather was an extremely steep set of switchbacks clear of snow. The Northside however was completely covered in snow with no clear way of going down aside from an assortment of previous hikers footprints. We post holed between sets of tracks trying to find the ones that made the most sense. The valley we entered next was filled with green grasses and small crystal clear lakes. Running down the sides of the valley were dozens of waterfalls and streams making the area look like a natural water park. We stopped at the end of one lake that turned into a maze of pools along grassy shores. It was so perfect it almost looked man made.
Exiting this valley the trail descended alongside a massive waterfall. By the time we were back below the treeline the trail had turned into a small river and we walked through it enjoying the icy foot bath. When I thought back to the start of the day It was amazing how much the scenery had changed over 18 miles. We made it to camp under 10k feet and dried our shoes by the fire.
Day 81
Mile 843 | 17 Hiked | John Muir Pass
I left camp a bit late this morning and ended up hiking most of the day alone. Again water was abundant with streams, lakes, rivers and waterfalls all intersecting the trail at every turn. It was overwhelming at times and I felt like I could have spent a month out here and still not fully appreciated it. I kept expecting to see Alex and Marissa waiting for me somewhere and started to get bummed out when I didn’t find them till well after 1pm. I’m not a slow hiker but keeping up with them felt impossible. Eventually I did catch them waiting for me at the base of Muir Pass which was good because this would be the most difficult pass yet.
The base of Muir looked like the entrance to Antarctica with only snow, ice covered lakes and towering craggy peaks dominating the landscape. The trail had disappeared into a massive valley of snow and we did our best to follow footprints left by other hikers. With so much snow though these tracks were all over the place leaving us to connect the ones that made the most sense. The trail walked across bridges of snow where fast moving rivers were running underfoot. I wasn’t sure how much snow was between myself and the raging water underneath but I hoped it was enough to support me. The further we climbed the larger the valley became with no clear pass in sight. It was soon made clear where it was though when a small stone hut came into view that marked the top of Muir Pass. The North side of Muir looked just as expansive and covered in snow as the South.
The North side of Muir Pass wasn’t steep but it felt endless. By now the snow had become very soft and we were post holing with every step. There must have been a good 3 miles of pure snow walking before the trail appeared again. At some point I broke through the snow and realized my worst post hole fear. My shin smacked the edge of a sharp rock breaking the skin. It wasn’t a horrible injury but it did hurt enough to make the rest of my day miserable. I packed some snow down in my sock for the swelling and pushed on. Now with a healthy fear of injuring myself again I started avoiding the snow and walked the rocky skree and streams around it. At this point I was soaked and gave no fucks about walking in the water anymore. The hiking was hard but was offset by the beauty that surrounded me. I half expected to see a polar bear or killer whale breach the icy Lake Wanda.
As the sun got lower walking in the icy water started to become colder. But with no end in sight I kept on. Alex and Marissa were far ahead now, small dots on the horizon of an endless valley. Camping up here wouldn’t be ideal so we pushed further down into another valley containing Evolution lake. I was chasing the sun at this point and was hoping to set up in the fading rays. Of course there was a massive river to cross before getting there though. I managed to make it to the sunlit side of lake and set up having had enough for the day. Alex and Marissa weren’t here and I didn’t know why they would have pushed further, this spot was perfect. Oh well I thought, I was getting tired of chasing them anyway. I filled a ziploc with snow to ice my shin and watched the sun set in the valley before crawling into my bag and passing out. Despite my exhaustion and pains I went to bed happy thinking about how truly epic of a day it had been.
Day 82
Mile 861 | 18 Hiked
This morning was the coldest yet. My shoes were frozen solid and I had to thaw them out over my stove before I could put them on. I made breakfast in my tent and dragged myself out before the sun had hit hoping to find Alex and Marissa further down the trail. I found them on the other side of the lake. They too looked cold huddled in their puffy’s waiting for the sun to rise over the mountains.
Today’s section offered us a break. With no passes to conquer we descended most of the day walking amongst the pines and enjoying moderate trail. The weather was warm and we had lunch on the bank of river that marked the end of Kings Canyon National Park. Now we entered the John Muir Wilderness, on the John Muir Trail having conquered the John Muir Pass. Apparently this Muir guy was kind of a big deal. The day continued to be relaxing compared to the previous ones and we made camp amongst the pines, had a fire and laughed with other hikers about how insane Muir Pass had been.
Day 83
Mile 878 | 17 Hiked | Selden Pass
Once again the trail ascended toward a pass but this one was nothing like the giant passes now behind us. The valley that led up to it was massive by normal standards but it felt relaxed in comparison to anything South of us. When I got to the top of the pass I was surprised that there wasn’t more. Selden pass sits at 11k feet of elevation and here I was considering it to be on the small. The Sierra had truly changed my outlook on hiking. We relaxed at the pass for a bit before heading down the North side. The ascent was moderate and offered spectacular views of multiple lakes dotted with rocky islands.
We dropped further, crossed some rivers amongst the pines and for the first time in a while I consider the trial to be a little mundane. Sure the occasional view of snow capped peaks appeared but for the most part this was just a lovely pine forest. It was almost nice to not have my senses assaulted by constant beauty. I wasn’t stopping every minute to take a photo and I didn’t feel like I was rushing past things that deserved more attention. Obviously I’ll take amazing sites over mundane hiking any day but after the last week I didn’t mind just staring at the trees and zoning out to a podcast.
At some point I noticed a forgotten sensation occurring in my pocket. My phone buzzing with multiple alerts. It didn’t stop for a good couple of minutes and I realized for the first time in 6 days that we had service. The seclusion of the High Sierra is made complete by the fact that you don’t get any service anywhere, not even on the high peaks. Being a social media addicted millennial I naturally stopped to enjoy this window of service and of course check in with anyone who might care. Dad was behind so finding out where he was wasn’t going to happen but I did manage to talk to my girlfriend Kat for a while as I hiked on. She was coming to meet me in Yosemite in a few days and I was very excited to see her and take time off trail.
We stopped for the day at the turn off to VVR which was a popular backcountry ranch used by thru hikers for a quick resupply and rest. We were aiming to walk into the town of Mammoth in 2 days and decided not to go into VVR. A real hot meal was hard to pass up but we were determined to stick to our original plan.
Day 84
Mile 896 | 18 Hiked | Silver Pass
After a few tough river crossings the trail started its way up Silver Pass, our last pass to conquer before going into Mammoth. Along the way were beautiful sites that had become commonplace. Twisting streams through grassy fields, torrents of waterfalls cascading down fields of rocks and massive valleys of pure white granite crags leading to snowy passes. Clearings following streams open up like roadways to peaks that tempt you to stand atop them. They say you only see 1% of the Sierra while hiking the JMT and the wilderness beckons you to walk off trail at every corner.
Silver Pass was on the smaller end but mostly covered in snow offering no clear way to go up. I did my best to walk around the snow and ended going straight up the pass. If you ever find yourself cursing switch backs wishing for a quicker route go ahead and try walking straight up. You’ll soon be exhausted but you will have a new appreciation for the engineering marvel that is a switchback. After some huffing and puffing I made it to the top of Silver which had an great 360 view of the surrounding valleys. We ran into an old friend we had not seen since the desert, Night Crawler. We exchanged stories from the past week and he hooked me up with a few bars when I mentioned how low on food I was. He had spent some time at VVR and had food to spare. The trail Night Crawler provides.
The North side of Silver was mostly snow covered and we slid our way down to where the snow ended. More gorgeous lakes rested amongst the peaks here and we hiked by quickly hoping to set ourselves up for an easy hike into Mammoth. We made it to camp as the sun was setting and enjoyed another fire before heading to bed.
Day 85
Mile 903 | 8 Hiked | Mammoth Resupply!
Today marked the end of our longest and most remote section of trail and we were all eager to get into town. We had spent 8 days in the backcountry of the High Sierra and it had felt like a lifetime. Almost every day we would climb out of the forests, enter enormous valleys, cross between granite mountain peaks and step into an entirely new world. Each valley was unique and no days were boring. The challenge of pushing big miles was multiplied tenfold when adding thousands of feet in elevation change each day. We were not alone and in fact saw many other hikers but even so we felt far removed from civilization. Sawmill Pass had given us a unique perspective on what it meant to fully exit the High Sierra and make it to a road. I felt truly removed in this mountainous island refuge surrounded by dry hot desert. The Sierra section was not over by a longshot and there were many remote miles ahead of us but the fact that we were walking into a town ended the remote solitude experienced the past 8 days.
As with most trail days and especially this one we practically ran the 8 miles into Mammoth. The trail there was lovely and continued to be so all the way up until the parking lot. We knew we were close when the amazing lake complete with craggy peaks was crawling with out-of-shape tourists. We caught a trolley into Mammoth proper from the trailhead and were walking into the Mammoth Brewery a few minutes later. We gorged ourselves on hamburgers, fries and IPAs not caring what the casual tourists might think of the dirty tired sight we were. A few other hikers were mixed in with the crowd and we exchanged nods in mutual respect for what we had just accomplished. The three of us had different plans from here on out and checked into a hostel to get cleaned up and figure things out. I was planning to hike 3 more days to Tuolumne Meadows where I would meet up with Kat and take 6 days off trail to explore Yosemite and the surrounding area. Alex had decided to head to San Francisco for a few days and for whatever reason was hitchhiking from Mammoth to Tahoe to do it. Marissia and I continued North.
Day 86
Mile 917 | 14 Hiked
With Alex now gone, Marissa and I got back on trail after spending one night in Mammoth. My goal was to make it to Tuolumne Meadows in 3 days and of course hers was to continue North. We left town a little late but still managed to push hard and get in some serious miles. Coming out of Mammoth was a noteworthy detour on trail, The Devils Postpile, a geographic wonder. Our camp for the night overlooked the High Sierras and Mammoth in the distance. We had heard fires were starting to break out and you could see the slight haze on the horizon from the smoke. This filled me with dread knowing that a fire on trail might mean a large detour or needing to skip trail all together. For now though it was behind us and not ahead.
Day 87
Mile 938 | 21 Hiked | Island Pass & Donahue Pass
The next day we climbed higher in elevation with the goal of crossing two passes before coming to the famed Tuolumne Meadows. The smoke behind us was now more visible and I dreaded the thought that my time off might allow for the fires to catch up. On the horizon I kept trying to imagine where Yosemite Valley might rest. I had been there before and knew just how unique and amazing it was. Funny enough I had always thought it must be the most spectacular part of the Sierra but now I knew it was just one of many mind blowing areas in the region.
Island Pass didn’t feel like much of a pass but more of a large green valley to walk through. Banner Peak dominated the other peaks in the area and looked straight out of a fairy tale surround by flowing rivers and lakes. The snow here was more melted and the weather warmer than it had been at higher elevations. Summer was setting in but with it came mosquitoes. Streams and pools of water surround the trail making the perfect spawning area for the biting devils. We had run into the occasional mosquito already but today they came out in full force.
By the time I was at the base of our second pass, Donahue Pass I was practically running to get ahead of the bugs. A hiker who I had not seen since Kennedy meadows flagged me down and although I wanted to chat for longer the bugs pushed me on. The pass looked snowy still and was above the treeline. I figured the biting bastards wouldn’t be so bad up there and it would be the only reasonable place to have lunch. Surprisingly they persisted most of the way up but slowed down a bit in the middle of the pass where the wind was at its strongest.
At the top of the pass Tuolumne Meadows was clearly visible for the first time. It really was a large green meadow nestled between a granite valley with a long winding river down the middle. The trail became incredibly flat for 12 miles and I grew excited at the idea of making it into Yosemite that evening. The way down the pass wasn’t easy though and took longer than expected with a few river crossings and snowy scrambles. Once I hit flat ground I started cruising. Kat wouldn’t be around for two days but I figured a car camp spot would be a nice place to hang out. I gassed out 3 miles short and decided to camp in the valley. I set up my tent, crawled in to escape the mosquitoes and let the exhaustion over take me. I managed to make dinner despite how tired I was and inspected my feet that were covered in massive blisters. They were all on the tips of my toes though and not so painful but alarming nonetheless. I realized I had outgrown my shoe size and would need to go up another half size soon.
Day 88
Mile 942 | 5 Hiked | Tuolumne Meadows
The next day I walked the easy 3 miles into Tuolumne Meadows and was immediately thankful I had not come here to camp the night before. Anyone who’s been to Yosemite in the middle of summer knows that it’s basically a theme park complete with traffic jams and hordes of tourists. I had never been to Tuolumne and didn’t know if it would be as bad as the valley but it was. I walked through the camp in a daze. Something about so much chaos in the middle of such pristine nature had me feeling more anxious than usual. Luckily I wasn’t planning to hang around long, there was no service here which meant I had no way to contact Kat and I decided to hitch back to Mammoth and wait for her there. Marissa would push North and continue on without us. She had truly become a part of the group, a Free Freak like us and it was sad to know she would be splitting off. We said our goodbyes and I made my way to the road hoping to find a transportation option or hitch. I ended up getting one from a sweet older women who told me about her younger days summiting Sierra Peaks and skiing down them. Now back in Mammoth I checked into the hostel to wait for Kat.
I had not heard from Dad since I got back and had started to grow a bit worried. As luck would have it though he was getting into Mammoth that day. We reunited at the hostel and exchanged Sierra stories from the past week. I had not seen him since summiting Whitney and once again we would be departing for a few days. The next day Kat came into town and picked me up at the hostel. The fires had caught up and it was literally raining ash in Mammoth. We had lunch with my dad before heading to June Lake to check into a fancy hotel for night. Seeing Kat after so many months apart felt really good. Even though I had been with family and friends the past 3 months I had always felt partly alone being away from Kat.
Day 89-94
Off Trail with Kat
The next week Kat and I explored the West side of the Sierra at our leisure. Being behind the wheel of a car capable of covering massive amounts of land was a joy after only using my legs for so long to travel. We jetted down to Bishop where I had walked from 11 days earlier in under an hour. Cars are basically teleportation for a thru hiker and I used my brief time with one to the max. One day we explored the salty shores of Mono Lake then rode up to the dusty streets of the classic ghost town, Bodie. Another day we drove down to Bishop to rent crash pads and climb the famed Butter Milk boulders at the base of the Sierra. They were a lot harder than we expected and it was 90 degrees outside so we mostly marveled at problems beyond our ability. After that we drove up to Wild Willy’s hot springs and enjoyed a stunning sunset as we relaxed in the warm natural pools of water.
Led by a guide we climbed trad on the famed granite of Tuolumne Meadows before heading into the valley where we had tent/cabin rented for the night in the shadow of Half Dome. We explored the valley for a day before trying our hand at getting an illusive permit to go up Half Dome. The process of getting one was a pian and I wasn’t sure if we were going to pull it off but we managed to snag one before our last day. This meant we had to hike up and down Half Dome in one day. A grueling 18 mile round trip that wasn’t easy for me and must have been brutal on poor Kat. The scenery on this hike was stunning enough to justify the pain though and we were both blown away by its beauty. Massive waterfalls line the start of the trail and by the second most of the crowds fade away leaving you in the Yosemite backcountry. The approach to the Half Dome Cables is stunning and of course the cables themselves are a lot of fun to go up. The view from the top is unreal and I vowed that the next time I summit Half Dome it would going up the other side via rope.
Day 95
Mile 947 | 5 Hiked | Yosemite
Our 6 days came to an end too soon and I would have loved nothing more than to spend forever driving around America’s national parks with Kat. The PCT was not even halfway over and it would be awhile before we would see each other again. I needed to finish what I started and I was lucky to have a partner that understood this need and fully supported me. She dropped me off at the edge of Tuolumne Meadows and I walked down the trail looking back till she was out of sight. Again I was alone with only the trail to keep me company.
I had been unable to communicate with Alex the past week so I wasn’t sure where he was. Our last plan had been to meet up here and keep going North to Sonora Pass. I assume maybe he was just ahead of me or behind but really I had no idea. I did know that my dad was meeting my mom and other family in Tahoe on July 4th only 4 days ahead. We had all planned to get off trail and hang out with them there for a few days. With this in mind I decided my best bet would be to make it Sonora Pass in 3 days. This would be no easy task being that it was 70 miles to Sonora and the end of the Sierra stood in my way.
It had been 5pm when I got back on trail so today would have to be a short one. I made camp along the river at a pristine location. Here I was only 5 miles from the mayhem that was the Tuolumne Meadows campground and there wasn’t another soul in sight. It’s no wonder so many had fallen in love with Yosemite over the years. 
Day 96
Mile 971 | 24 Hiked | Benson Pass
When people visit Yosemite they mostly see its famed valley with its sheer granite faces and perfect waterfalls. They drive through the traffic and wait in lines to see natural wonders with all of the comforts a theme park might provide. They seldom venture into the backcountry and walk to the parks edge. The next 3 days I would be doing just that.
The river followed the trail for a few miles till reaching Tuolumne falls. The falls glowed in the early morning light and I was tempted to jump in but knew I had miles to crush and no time to spare. Slowly I climbed in the hot afternoon sun doing my best to only rest in spots where the wind blew and direct sun shined. The mosquitoes were at their peak and stopping in the shade meant being attacked from all angles. I donned my bug net for the first time after carrying it 930 miles and was happy to have it on hand. I entered a large grassy valley where small granite peaks sprouted from the pine trees like mini half domes.
By lunch the breeze had picked up and I was higher in elevation. I found the perfect sandy beach along a small alpine lake to have lunch. The clouds in the distance looked ominous and threatened rain. The concept of rain by now was totally foreign to me and the idea of it happening seemed farfetched. Regardless I kept my eyes on the horizon as I approached the base of Benson pass. Going up and over a high pass in a storm was not a good idea but with little choice I climbed higher. Going up a mountain with the threat of storm is exciting and gave me extra energy to crank it out. At the top of the pass I ran into fellow PCT thru hikers going South. Apparently the fires in the Sierra had become worse and many thru hikers were flip flopping in an attempt to avoid them and have clear skies in the higher areas. I was thankful that I had outrun the fires thus far but knew that Oregon and Northern California were ablaze at that very moment.
The North Side of Benson pass was a mild descent leading to a series of alpine lakes. Each one tempted me with great camping spots and I wanted nothing more than to stop and set up. 20 miles would not cut it though and I cranked the jams and went for another 5. I sang my heart out as I hiked to forget the aches and pains and made it to a suitable camp just as the sun was setting. Today was brutal and my body was having a tough time adjusting. Two more days and I could rest again.
Day 97
Mile 991 | 20 Hiked | Seavey Pass
Hiking alone meant that I was listening to a lot more audio books, podcasts and music and this morning I needed some Wu Tang Clan to get me motivated. The bugs were out in full force so everything I did felt rushed. Breaking down camp in a panic and hitting the trail before they started biting was the new routine. The trail started off going down into a valley and soon I was at the bottom navigating a series of river crossings. Here the bushes grew large and downed trees were abundant. I got off trail for a bit following a side trail and cursed myself once I realized it. After my setback I proceeded up Seavey Pass which went down easy but was followed by multiple up and downs. Here high alpine lakes with small granite peaks were abundant and unlike Kings Canyon the pines still grew at this elevation. Even though it was summer, for the higher elevation it was spring and the wildflowers blooming added vivid color to the sea of earthtones.
The day continued with its up and downs and I found myself walking through deep forests with mazes of tiny lakes and rivers. The trail here was a perfect ditch where green grass grew along its edges. For whatever reason license plates has been nailed to a few trees here. After the 5th one I realized it must have been a tradition. I was in the middle of nowhere far from any road making this all the more bizarre.
The sun faded as the day grew late and the mosquitoes started to bite whenever I stopped. I quickened my pace which usually was fast enough to keep them off but this time it didn’t seem to matter. The trail here was flat but rocky and I stumbled over boulders hiking at a slight jog. Even this was not enough and I started to grow frantic. Slapping at my ankles and face when their irritating buzz sounded in my ear. I was literally being eaten alive on a scale I had never experienced in all my time hiking. The bastards killed my spirit and I started looking for a place to make camp at mile 20. The snow had recently melted here and the ground was soggy on all sides, I hiked on hoping to come to a better spot but the bugs beat me and I started setting up directly off trail.
It was dark now and the fuckers were still attacking ruthlessly. Water wasn’t far and I sprinted to get some and set up my shelter. I cursed and danced around as I set up and dove in when everything was finally set. I was safe now and could see hundreds of them buzzing around my netted door. Exhausted mentally and physically, feeling like a prisoner in my own shelter and alone with no one to vent my woes to, this was my lowest point on trail. I thought how nice life had been just 2 days prior, relaxing in an Airbnb with Kat, munching on snacks nursing a cold beer. Now here I was lying in the mud, covered in bug bites, aching all over and knowing I needed to hike 25 miles tomorrow to make it to Tahoe for the 4th.
Day 98
Mile 1016 | July 3rd | 25 Hiked | Dorthy Pass & Sonora Pass
I got up at 6am hoping that the mosquitoes would still be asleep and I could get some hiking done in peace. I had a long way to go as well and needed every hour of daylight to make it. It was chilly in the valley and a thin layer of frost covered everything. Paranoid that the bugs might come out at any second I packed up quickly and started down the trail. Not being an early morning riser it was rare for me to hike before the sun fully rose even on trail . The valley was stunning in the early morning light and changed color as the sun slowly rose over the surrounding mountain peaks. The trail here was moderate and the bugs seemed relaxed for now. Dorothy Pass was the last pass before exiting Yosemite and it did not disappoint. A gorgeous blue lake with a unique and mighty snow covered range surrounding it. It was an amazing end to the legendary Yosemite and I was sad when I came across the sign that marked the parks edge.
Immediately after going over the pass the landscape started to change. The earth dried up, became rocky and loose with less vegetation. Granite giants unique in shape were gone and replaced with endless rolling mountains. I passed mile marker 1000 on the trail which would have felt more significant if it were the halfway point or if I had anyone to celebrate with. The mosquitoes made sure I didn’t linger too long and I snapped an awkward photo before pressing on. I started to think the trail would be timid from here on out but as I approached the base of Sonora Pass I realized how wrong I was. A never ending series of switchbacks lay before me leading up a mountain of loose red rock. At the top was what felt like the true edge of the Sierra. To the South were the snow capped giants and to the North rolling green mountains.
The trail went over the pass and walked a narrow wind swept rideline before dipping back down its side. Again the trail opened up into a massive valley where I could see for miles. Here I thought I was getting close to the road but the trail looked to be endless. I walked around great basins and across multiple fields of snow before getting to the last series of switchbacks and hitting the road. At the road I ran into another hiker who was trying to go to Tahoe as well. We got lucky and were picked up by two women and their daughter heading to Carson City. It wasn’t Tahoe but it was close and beggars can’t be choosers. They ended up being super sweet, stopping to get us burgers on the way. When we got to Carson they insisted on checking us into a hotel on their dime which was incredible since my parents wouldn’t be able to pick me up till the next day. Not a bad way to end a day that started in the mud.
The Sierra for many is the best part of the Pacific Crest Trail and for me it was as well. Whenever I thought of the PCT prior to starting I thought of the Sierra. To me the Sierra was the PCT and a big part of the reason I had wanted to hike it. The desert was just an obstacle in my path to get there and the rest of trail to far in the future to even think about. Once I was in it I desperately wanted it to be more and then it was more. It was the most extreme awe inspiring nature I had ever hiked. Each day was a new world with unique challenges that seemed to one up the day prior. After Muir Pass things settled down but at that point it was welcomed. Climbing over massive passes day after day was rewarding but took a toll on the body. Being so remote that the fear of running out of food or getting injured was a real risk that could cost you your life was exciting but draining.
I left the Sierra feeling like an addict after coming down from the ultimate high. Broken and tired not sure where the next hit would come from. I wasn’t sure if anything else could top it. I wondered to myself in Tahoe what the rest of the trail would be like, if I even cared. Not until Washington would we see anything close to the magnitude of the Sierra and that was still a thousand miles to the North. Fires were overtaking Northern California and fears of trail closures were the new rumor up and down the trail. The Sierra was behind us now and I wasn’t sure what to look forward to.
Next: Northern California
